THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF THE OCEANOGRAPHY SOCIETY
VOL.33, NO.1, MARCH 2020
Oceanography
THE MEDEA PROGRAM
OPENING A WINDOW INTO NEW DATA
HUMAN MIGRATIONS
TO THE AMERICAS
AN OCEANOGRAPHIC PERSPECTIVE
2019 FLOODING OF VENICE
IMPLICATIONS FOR FUTURE PREDICTIONS
CITIZEN SCIENCE
IN THE WESTERN ANTARCTIC PENINSULA
USING DATA IN TEACHING
NSF’S OCEAN OBSERVATORIES INITIATIVE
PLUS
• DIY OCEANOGRAPHY
• HANDS-ON OCEANOGRAPHY
• THE OCEANOGRAPHY CLASSROOM
• CAREER PROFILES
Oceanography | March 2020
VOL. 33, NO. 1, MARCH 2020
contents
VOL. 33, NO. 1, MARCH 2020
REGULAR ISSUE FEATURES
20
The MEDEA Program: Opening a Window into New Earth Science Data
By D.J. Baker and L. Zall
32
An Oceanographic Perspective on Early Human Migrations to
the Americas
By T.C. Royer and B. Finney
42
The 2019 Flooding of Venice and Its Implications for Future Predictions
By The ISMAR Team: L. Cavaleri, M. Bajo, F. Barbariol, M. Bastianini, A. Benetazzo,
L. Bertotti, J. Chiggiato, C. Ferrarin, F. Trincardi, and G. Umgiesser
50
Polar Tourism as an Effective Research Tool: Citizen Science in the
Western Antarctic Peninsula
By A.M. Cusick, R. Gilmore, A. Bombosch, M. Mascioni, G.O. Almandoz,
and M. Vernet
62
Using Authentic Data from NSF’s Ocean Observatories Initiative in
Undergraduate Teaching: An Invitation
By C. Greengrove, C.S. Lichtenwalner, H.I. Palevsky, A. Pfeiffer-Herbert,
S. Severmann, D. Soule, S. Murphy, L.M. Smith, and K. Yarincik
DEPARTMENTS
05
QUARTERDECK. Introduction to the March Issue of Oceanography
By E.S. Kappel
07
FROM THE PRESIDENT. Oceanography in the Decade of Digital Science
and Sustainable Development: New Opportunities for TOS?
By M. Visbeck
08
RIPPLE MARKS. Sand: A Resource That’s Washing Away
By C.L. Dybas
11
COMMENTARY. The Importance of Bottom-Up Approaches to
International Cooperation in Ocean Science: The Iron Story
By E.R. Urban Jr., A.R. Bowie, P.W. Boyd, K.N. Buck, M.C. Lohan, S.G. Sander,
R. Schlitzer, A. Tagliabue, and D. Turner
16
COMMENTARY. California Wildfire Burns Boundaries Between
Science and Art
By K.M. Bisson, N. Baetge, S.J. Kramer, D. Catlett, G. Girling, H. McNair, E. Arrington,
D. Hayes, C. Jacobs, A. James, I. Closset, A.D. Fischer, S. Wagner, M. Reading,
J. Comstock, S. Amiri, E. Harvey, C. Carlson, P. Gaube, K. Drushka, and D.L. Valentine
42
62
16
20
Oceanography | March 2020
ON THE COVER
Tourism and science come together in the Western
Antarctic Peninsula through citizen science projects
like FjordPhyto (see Cusick et al., 2020, in this
issue). As travelers visit this remote region, tour
staff explain the implications of melting glaciers for
Antarctic ecosystems. Photo credit: Allison Cusick,
Scripps Institution of Oceanography
CONTACT US
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CORRECTIONS
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74
WORKSHOP REPORT. Data Needs for Hyperspectral Detection of Algal
Diversity Across the Globe
By H. Dierssen, A. Bracher, V. Brando, H. Loisel, and K. Ruddick
80
DIY OCEANOGRAPHY. Inlinino: A Modular Software Data Logger for
Oceanography
By N. Haëntjens and E. Boss
85
HANDS-ON OCEANOGRAPHY. Digging into the Geologic Record of
Environmentally Driven Changes in Coral Reef Development
By P.M. Gravinese, R.B. Aronson, and L.T. Toth
92
THE OCEANOGRAPHY CLASSROOM. The Bureaucratic Oaf
By S. Boxall
94
CAREER PROFILES. Conor McManus, Deputy Chief, Rhode Island
Department of Environmental Management, Division of Marine Fisheries •
Nicole Elko, President, Elko Coastal Consulting Inc.
80
Thank You for Joining Us at the TOS HONORS BREAKFAST
Recognizing and Celebrating our Colleagues’ Accomplishments
THE OFFICIAL MAGAZINE OF THE OCEANOGRAPHY SOCIETY
VOL.33, NO.1, MARCH 2020
Oceanography
THE MEDEA PROGRAM
OPENING A WINDOW INTO NEW DATA
HUMAN MIGRATIONS
TO THE AMERICAS
AN OCEANOGRAPHIC PERSPECTIVE
2019 FLOODING OF VENICE
IMPLICATIONS FOR FUTURE PREDICTIONS
CITIZEN SCIENCE
IN THE WESTERN ANTARCTIC PENINSULA
USING DATA IN TEACHING
NSF’S OCEAN OBSERVATORIES INITIATIVE
PLUS
• DIY OCEANOGRAPHY
• HANDS-ON OCEANOGRAPHY
• THE OCEANOGRAPHY CLASSROOM
• CAREER PROFILES
EDITOR
Ellen S. Kappel
Geosciences Professional
Services Inc.
ekappel@geo-prose.com
ASSISTANT EDITOR
Vicky Cullen
vcullen@whoi.edu
CONTRIBUTING WRITER
Cheryl Lyn Dybas
cheryl.lyn.dybas@gmail.com
DESIGN/PRODUCTION
Johanna Adams
johanna-adams@cox.net
Oceanography
https://tos.org/oceanography
Oceanography contains peer-reviewed articles that chronicle all aspects of
ocean science and its applications. The journal presents significant research,
noteworthy achievements, exciting new technology, and articles that address
public policy and education and how they are affected by science and tech-
nology. The overall goal of Oceanography is cross-disciplinary communica-
tion in the ocean sciences.
Oceanography (ISSN 1042-8275) is published by The Oceanography Society,
1 Research Court, Suite 450, Rockville, MD 20850 USA. Oceanography arti-
cles are licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International
License, which permits use, sharing, adaptation, distribution, and repro-
duction in any medium or format as long as users cite the materials appro-
priately, provide a link to the Creative Commons license, and indicate the
changes that were made to the original content. Third-party material used
in articles are included in the Creative Commons license unless indicated
otherwise in a credit line to the material. If the material is not included in
the article’s Creative Commons license, users will need to obtain permission
directly from the license holder to reproduce the material. Please contact
Jennifer Ramarui at info@tos.org for further information.
ASSOCIATE EDITORS
Claudia Benitez-Nelson
University of South Carolina
cbnelson@geol.sc.edu
Ian Brosnan
NASA Ames Research Center
ian.g.brosnan@nasa.gov
Grace Chang
Integral Consulting Inc.
gchang@integral-corp.com
Margaret L. (Peggy) Delaney
University of California, Santa Cruz
delaney@ucsc.edu
Philip N. Froelich
Duke University
froelich@magnet.fsu.edu
Charles H. Greene
Cornell University
chg2@cornell.edu
William Smyth
Oregon State University
smyth@coas.oregonstate.edu
Kiyoshi Suyehiro
Yokohama Institute for Earth
Sciences, JAMSTEC
suyehiro@jamstec.go.jp
Peter Wadhams
University of Cambridge
p.wadhams@damtp.cam.ac.uk
The Oceanography Society was founded in 1988 to
advance oceanographic research, technology, and
education, and to disseminate knowledge of ocean-
ography and its application through research and
education. TOS promotes the broad understand-
ing of oceanography, facilitates consensus building
across all the disciplines of the field, and informs the
public about ocean research, innovative technology,
and educational opportunities throughout the spec-
trum of oceanographic inquiry.
OFFICERS
PRESIDENT: Martin Visbeck
PRESIDENT-ELECT: Andone Lavery
PAST-PRESIDENT: Alan C. Mix
SECRETARY: Allison Miller
TREASURER: Susan Banahan
COUNCILORS
AT-LARGE: Richard Crout
APPLIED TECHNOLOGY: Larry Mayer
BIOLOGICAL OCEANOGRAPHY: Charles H. Greene
CHEMICAL OCEANOGRAPHY: Galen McKinley
EDUCATION: Carolyn Scheurle
GEOLOGICAL OCEANOGRAPHY: Amelia Shevenell
PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY: Magdalena Andres
STUDENT REPRESENTATIVE: Christina Hernández
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR
Jennifer Ramarui
CORPORATE AND
INSTITUTIONAL MEMBERS
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» https://www.bakerdonelson.com
INTEGRAL CONSULTING INC.
» https://www.integral-corp.com/
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» https://www.metocean.co.nz/
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» http://sciencemedia.nl/
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» https://sea-birdscientific.com
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» http://www.sequoiasci.com/
SUBMARINE CABLE SALVAGE
» https://www.oceannetworks.com/
submarine-cable-salvage
TELEDYNE RD INSTRUMENTS
» http://www.teledynemarine.com/rdi
US ARCTIC RESEARCH COMMISSION
» https://www.arctic.gov
tos.org
Oceanography | March 2020
The Oceanography Society (TOS) was founded in 1988 to encourage collabo-
ration and innovation among ocean scientists worldwide and across subdisci-
plines. The Society continues to support this community through publishing
Oceanography magazine, convening scientific conferences, and recognizing
major achievements in ocean sciences through the TOS Honors Program.
TOS is fully committed to nurturing the next generation of ocean scientists
through mentoring, providing leadership opportunities, and disseminating
student-curated newsletters that highlight student members, provide links to
resources, and announce opportunities.
The membership period is January 1 through December 31 of each year. Upon
joining, new members will receive access to all back issues of Oceanography
published during this membership period.
Membership Options
Regular Membership [$70]. Available to oceanographers, scientists, or engi-
neers active in ocean-related fields, or to persons who have advanced ocean-
ography by management or other public service.
Student Membership [Free!]. Available for students enrolled in an oceanog-
raphy or ocean-related program at the baccalaureate or higher level.
Early Career Membership [$30]. Available to non-student oceanographers,
scientists, or engineers active in ocean- related fields, or to persons who have
advanced oceanography by management or other public service who have
received their highest degree within the past three years.
Sponsoring Membership [$125]. Available to individuals who wish to pro-
vide enhanced support annually. In the United States, $50 of the annual dues
in this category is tax-deductible as a charitable contribution as are any addi-
tional contributions, over and above the annual regular membership dues.
Visit https://tos.org and click on join TOS
to complete your application!
Call for Corporate and
Institutional TOS Members
[Starting at $300] TOS invites all corporate or
nonprofit organizations interested in the ocean
sciences to join as members in this category.
Membership benefits include:
• An active link from the TOS website to the
organization’s website
• Complimentary inclusion of one quarter-
page ad in Oceanography magazine
• Organization’s name and contact information
included in each issue of Oceanography
• Discounted rates for employment opportu-
nity postings in the TOS Jobs Center
• Fifteen percent discount on advertising in
Oceanography
For more information, go to:
https://tos.org/corporate- and-
institutional-members
Make connections,
advance your career,
enrich your research
JoinTOS
Welcome to the March issue of Oceanography. In this issue,
instead of focusing on one theme or topic in a special invited
section, five feature articles cover an extraordinarily broad range
of subjects that for the most part came to us via unsolicited man-
uscript submission. We are also very excited to introduce a new
department called DIY Oceanography, where authors share all
relevant information about a homemade sensor, an instrument,
or new software so that others can build, or build upon, it.
The March issue kicks off with a bit of history. Baker and
Zall describe the origins and impacts of the MEDEA pro-
gram, launched in 1992, that resulted in declassification of huge
amounts of data collected by the US Intelligence and Defense
Communities that could enhance research on Earth’s envi-
ronment. One of the most widely recognized outcomes of the
MEDEA program is the global map of ocean bottom topogra-
phy produced by Walter Smith and David Sandwell based on
GEOSAT altimeter data that were declassified during MEDEA.
The MEDEA retrospective is followed by a contribution
from Royer and Finney that provides an “oceanographic
perspective” on early human migrations to the Americas. Adding
to the discussion of this much written about subject, the authors
discuss ocean currents and sea levels that likely existed during
and after the Last Glacial Maximum that could have enhanced
or hindered boat journeys along the route from Berengia, which
included parts of what are now Alaska and eastern Siberia, to the
Pacific Northwest.
The ISMAR Team analyzes the different factors that led up to
the 2019 great flooding of Venice and shows why it was unlikely
that an accurate forecast could have been developed for this
event. Coastal regions around the world are facing similar situa-
tions, which may worsen in the future. The authors suggest that
scientists working on such problems should exchange ideas and
information to improve local solutions.
Cusick et al. provide details about how they developed and
executed their citizen science project that partners scientists with
the Antarctic tourism industry to enable regular data collection
in coastal waters from November to March. In this inspiring arti-
cle, the authors show how using an untraditional approach for
gathering data can enhance research in Antarctica and also edu-
cate tourists about the polar environment.
The final feature article in this issue by Greengrove et al.
provides an overview of current Ocean Observatories Initiative
(OOI) educational resources and opportunities, along with exam-
ple applications of OOI data. The authors invite the community
to create and share new ways to engage students with OOI data.
The March Oceanography department contributions are also
varied. They include a commentary that champions the continu-
ing need for organizations that support the bottom-up develop-
ment and nurturing of science ideas (Urban et al.) and another
that describes a student-led research cruise and the insights the
students gained from the experience at their stage of graduate
education (Bisson et al.). A report by Dierssen et al. details the
recommendations of a recent workshop on data needs for hyper-
spectral detection of algal diversity, and a hands-on oceanogra-
phy contribution by Gravinese et al. provides three activities
in which undergraduates can use real data to understand how
climate and oceanographic conditions have impacted coral reef
growth over the last 5,000 years.
The kick-off DIY contribution by Haëntjens and Boss intro-
duces Inlinino, an open-source software data logger with real-
time visualization capabilities whose main purpose is to log sci-
entific measurements collected at sea over extended periods. In
line with the mission of DIY Oceanography, anyone with moder-
ate coding skills should be able to add new sensors.
The March issue also contains our usual education, Ripple
Marks, and careers columns.
For those who only receive electronic copies of Oceanography,
don’t forget that along with the March issue, we publish the
annual ocean exploration supplement that details the latest
E/V Nautilus, NOAA Ship Okeanos Explorer, and R/V Falkor
field seasons. The supplement—now in its tenth year—is mailed
with hard copies of the March issue to TOS members and is also
available online on the Oceanography website (https://tos.org/
ocean-exploration).
It’s been an astonishing seven years since Oceanography has
published an issue without a special section devoted to one
theme or one program. While we don’t know when the next
one will be, we strongly encourage continued submission of
articles that are of broad interest to the oceanographic com-
munity; those articles can be published in any issue, special or
not. See the Oceanography author guidelines (https://tos.org/
oceanography/guidelines) or drop me or any editorial board
member a note (email addresses available here: https://tos.org/
oceanography/editors) with an idea for an article. We look for-
ward to hearing from you!
Ellen S. Kappel, Editor
QUARTERDECK
Introduction to the March Issue of Oceanography
Oceanography | March 2020
OCEANOGRAPHY
NEW IN OCEANOGRAPHY IN MARCH 2020. Oceanography guest edi-
tors Melissa Omand and Emmanuel Boss are seeking contributions to
DIY Oceanography. In this new section, contributing authors share all of the
relevant information on a homemade sensor or instrument so that others can
build, or build upon, it. The short articles will also showcase how this technol-
ogy was used successfully in the field. Contributions should include a list of
the materials and costs, instructions on how to build, and any blueprints and
codes (those could be deposited elsewhere). See Oceanography’s Author
Guidelines page (https://tos.org/oceanography/guidelines) for detailed infor-
mation on submission requirements.
CALL
FOR
CONTRIBUTIONS
June 2020
PALEOCEANOGRAPHY:
LESSONS FOR A
CHANGING WORLD
September 2020
MARINE BIODIVERSITY
OBSERVATION NETWORK:
AN OBSERVING SYSTEM
FOR LIFE IN THE SEA
December 2020
ECOLOGICAL EFFECTS
OF OFFSHORE WIND ENERGY
DEVELOPMENT
March 2021
GoMRI:
GULF OF MEXICO OIL SPILL
& ECOSYSTEM SCIENCE
2010–2020
https://tos.org/oceanography
Oceanography
UPCOMING
Oceanography
Style Now Available
for EndNote
We are pleased to announce that the
Oceanography citation style is now
available for download from EndNote.
Please go to the EndNote web page
https://endnote.com/
and search on “oceanography”
SPECIAL ISSUES
This section of Oceanography provides an outlet for short papers that
describe novel approaches to multidisciplinary problems in oceanography.
These provocative papers will present findings that are synthetic by design
and have the potential to move the field of oceanography forward or in new
directions. The Associate Editor overseeing Breaking Waves is Ian Brosnan
(ian.g.brosnan@nasa.gov). Authors should submit a brief email to Dr. Brosnan
that outlines their ideas for papers prior to actual manuscript preparation. For
more information, see the Author Guidelines at:
https://tos.org/oceanography/guidelines
Breaking Waves CALL FOR MANUSCRIPTS
Oceanography | Vol.33, No.1
FROM THE PRESIDENT
The key word in our society’s name, oceanography, combines the
Greek words ὠκεανός meaning “ocean,” and γράφω, meaning
“write.” Other languages use oceanology, with the second word
λογία meaning “logic.” To me, the science of modern ocean-
ography includes both the description and the understanding
of ocean systems that cover a wide range of topics, including
marine life and ecosystems, ocean circulation, plate tectonics
and the geology of the seafloor, and the ocean’s chemical, bio-
geochemical, and physical properties. Since the beginning of
The Oceanography Society (TOS), we have recognized four sci-
entific disciplines with seats on our Council—physical, biologi-
cal, chemical, and geological oceanography—and we recognize
the importance of applied technology and education. I’d like to
suggest that to keep TOS—the only international society that
bridges all areas of ocean science—current, it is time to revisit its
disciplinary building blocks.
Erik van Sebille, one of the invited lecturers at the recent Ocean
Sciences Meeting, introduced himself as a “plastic oceanogra-
pher” with a twinkle in his eye. And Jane Lubchenco, in her Mary
Sears Medal lecture, ended with a call to action for our commu-
nity to “embrace a new social contract, one in which scientists
and their institutions are fully engaged in co-creating scalable
solutions that heal people and the ocean.” These words parallel
an agenda that the UN Decade of Ocean Science for Sustainable
Development will promote during 2021–2030. We need to ask
ourselves whether TOS embraces all ocean disciplinary commu-
nities needed to support these emerging challenges.
I also saw a large number of contributions at the Ocean
Sciences Meeting in the area of “digital oceanography.” About
15 abstracts explicitly mentioned the word “digital,” 20 included
“artificial intelligence,” another 20 referred to “big data,” and
more than 50 used “machine learning” methods. The European
Union is currently discussing a Mission Earth initiative that
would bring together scientific and industrial excellence to
develop a high-precision digital model of Earth (its “digital
twin”) that would radically improve Europe’s environmental
prediction and crisis management capabilities. Is TOS ready
to support the ocean’s piece? I am excited about an OCEAN5D
initiative supporting “digital twin oceans” that would describe
an ocean in one temporal and three spatial dimensions (4D).
The fifth dimension would refer to an ocean issue such as sea-
floor habitat, sea level changes, seagrass abundance, coastal vul-
nerability to harmful algae blooms, or the economic poten-
tial of zoning for mariculture or wind energy farming. If all of
our existing data were interoperable and FAIR (for details, see
https://www.go-fair.org/fair-principles/), we could deliver the
first OCEAN5D pilots rapidly at regional or sub-basin scales.
The US EarthCube initiative (https://www.earthcube.org/)
seems like a most relevant step in the direction of open and
interoperable environmental data.
For TOS to capitalize on these ideas, we should consider
enlarging our Council by two members, one to connect us to the
socioeconomic-legal ocean communities and another to repre-
sent the digital dimension of oceanography. Moreover, should
we consider cosponsoring two topical ocean meetings in 2021,
perhaps one on ocean solutions in partnership with the Ocean
Visions network (http://www.oceanvisions.org/) and another on
the digital ocean jointly with IEEE (https://www.ieee.org/)? I am
interested to hear your thoughts and ideas.
Martin Visbeck, TOS President
REFERENCE
El Saddik, A. 2018. Digital twins: The convergence of multimedia technologies.
IEEE MultiMedia 25(2):87–92, https://doi.org/10.1109/MMUL.2018.023121167.
OCEANOGRAPHY IN THE DECADE OF
DIGITAL SCIENCE AND SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT
New Opportunities for TOS?
A “digital twin” is a digital replica of a living
or non- living physical entity. By bridging
the physical and the virtual worlds, data
are transmitted seamlessly, allowing the
virtual entity to exist simultaneously with the
physical entity (El Saddik, 2018).
Oceanography | March 2020
SAND A Resource That’s Washing Away
By Cheryl Lyn Dybas
Sand. It’s under our feet when we walk on
a beach, and is in every house and road,
wine glass and cellphone, brick and can
of paint. But we rarely spare a thought for
this seemingly endless resource.
That needs to change, according to
a 2019 report by the United Nations
Environment Programme (UNEP): Sand
and Sustainability: Finding New Solutions
for Environmental Governance of Global
Sand Resources.
After water, sand is the second most
traded resource by volume worldwide.
Sand and gravel together are the number
one solid material mined globally, accord-
ing to an earlier (2014) UNEP report: Sand,
Rarer than One Thinks.
Researchers are finding that even an
apparently ubiquitous substance like sand
cannot keep up with current demand.
Around the world, 40 to 50 billion tons of
sand and gravel are used every year, the
equivalent of a 35 m high by 35 m wide
wall circling the equator.
“Formed by slow erosive processes,
sand and gravel are now being extracted
at a rate far greater than their renewal,”
states the 2014 UN report. “That’s hav-
ing a major impact on rivers, deltas, and
marine ecosystems, resulting in a loss of
Photo credit: Ilya Raskin
land through river or coastal erosion, low-
ering of the water table, and decreases in
the [downstream] sediment supply.”
Despite the colossal quantities of sand
being removed, our increasing depen-
dence on it, and the impact its extraction
has on the environment, the situation has
been largely ignored by policy makers and
is almost unknown to the public.
“Sand is used by everyone,” says
Pascal Peduzzi, director of the Global
Resources Information Database-Geneva
at UN Environment. Peduzzi first raised
the issue of dwindling sand supplies.
“We are now working with stakeholders
at every level, hoping to find sustainable
solutions,” he says.
SHIFTING SANDS
Shifting sand consumption patterns, grow-
ing human populations, and increasing
urbanization and infrastructure devel-
opment have increased the demand for
sand threefold over the last two decades.
At the same time, damming and extraction
have slowed sediment delivery from rivers
to coastal areas, leading to reduced sand
deposits in river deltas and accelerated
beach erosion.
“We’re spending our sand ‘budget’
faster than it’s being produced,” says
Joyce Msuya, deputy executive director
of UNEP. “We now need 50 billion tons
per year, an average of 18 kilograms per
person per day. These expectations can-
not be met without improved governance
of global sand resources. We can better
manage this critical resource, and demon-
strate that infrastructure and nature can
go hand-in-hand.”
Most sand goes into the production of
concrete—made of sand, gravel, water,
and cement. Sand is also used to replen-
ish retreating beaches and extend territo-
ries by constructing artificial islands, such
as The World in Dubai, or filling in coastal
areas like those surrounding Singapore.
Until recently, sand was extracted from
land quarries and riverbeds. A result of the
decline of inland sand resources, a shift to
marine and coastal sand mining has taken
place. Now sand mining from marine envi-
ronments is increasing significantly.
Sand extraction from fragile marine eco-
systems may destroy local biodiversity.
And the demand for sand may lead to ille-
gal sand extraction. “Sand mafias” in India,
for example, threaten communities and
their livelihoods and leave environmental
protection efforts at risk.
RIPPLE MARKS: THE STORY BEHIND THE STORY
Oceanography | Vol.33, No.1